The buttock, also known as the round, of beef was most often boiled, stewed, or salted.
Steaks and pieces of meat for a la mode cooking (braising with vegetables) were cut from the round. The round was also used in soups. When eaten fresh, the buttock was best cut into steaks, beaten well and then either broiled, fried, or stewed. When eating the lean part of the buttock, it was recommended that it be lardoned, i.e. holes made in it and fat inserted.
circa 1796
Take a buttock of beef, interlarded with great lard, rolled up in chopped spice, sage, parsley, thyme, and green onions; bind it close with coarse tape, and put it into a great saucepan. When it is half done, turn it; let it stand over the fire on a stove twelve hours. It is fit to eat cold or hot. When it is cold, slice it out thin, and toss it up in a fine ragout of sweetbreads, oysters, mushrooms, and palates.
[tabby title=”Corned Beef”]
circa 1840
The best piece is the round. You may either boil it whole, or divide it into two, or even three pieces if it is large, taking care that each piece shall have a portion of the fat. Wash it well; and, if very salt, soak it in two waters. Skewer it up tightly and in a good compact shape, wrapping the flap piece firmly round it. Tie it round with broad strong tape, or with a strip of coarse linen. Put it into a large pot, and cover it well with water. It will be found a convenience to lay it on a fish drainer.
Hang it over a moderate fire that it may heat gradually all through. Carefully take off the scum as it rises, and when no more appears, keep the pot closely covered, and let it boil slowly and regularly, with the fire at an equal temperature. Allow three hours and a half to a piece weighing about twelve pounds, and from that to four or five hours in proportion to the size. Turn the meat twice in the pot while it is boiling. Put in some carrots and turnips about two hours after the meat. Many persons boil cabbage in the same pot with the beef, but it is a much nicer way to do the green in a separate vessel, lest they become saturated with the liquid fat. Cauliflower or brocoli (which are frequently accompaniments to corned beef) should never be boiled with it.
Wash the cabbage in cold water, removing the outside leaves, and cutting the stalk close. Examine all the leaves carefully, lest insects should be lodged among them. If the cabbage is large, divide it into quarters. Put it into a pot of boiling water, with a handful of salt, and boil it till the stalk is quite tender. Half an hour will generally be sufficient for the small young cabbage; an hour for a large full-grown one. Drain it well before you dish it. If boiled separately from the meat, have ready some melted butter to eat with it.
Should you find the beef under-done, you may reboil it next day; putting it into boiling water and letting it simmer for half an hour or more according to its size.
Cold corned beef will keep very well for some days wrapped in several folds of a thick linen cloth, and set away in a cool dry place.
In carving a round of beef, slice it horizontally and very thin. Do not help any one to the outside pieces, as they are generally too hard and salt. French mustard is very nice with corned beef.* [* French mustard is made of the very best mustard powder, diluted with vinegar, and flavoured with minced tarragon leaves, and a minced clove of garlic; all mixed with a wooden spoon.]
This receipt will apply equally to any piece of corned beef, except that being less solid than the round, they will, in proportion to their weight, require rather less time to boil.
In dishing the meat, remove the wooden skewers and substitute plated or silver ones.
Many persons think it best (and they are most probably right) to stew corned beef rather than boil it. If you intend to stew it, put no more water in the pot than will barely cover the meat, and keep it gently simmering over a slow fire for four, five, or six hours, according to the size of the piece.
[tabbyending]